Do it once to scrape by, 1 more step to learn it, 1 more to master.
Repeat, Repeat, Repeat to level Up
We all know that repeating climbs is good for improving technique, but we also know that gaining experience on new types of moves and techniques is important. In the beginning of our climbing journey, the name of the game is exposure. By exposing ourselves to all forms of climbing, we improve our climbing vocabulary by creating new movement patterns, mastering our bodies, gaining new types of strength, and developing confidence across all styles of climbing.

In the beginning, we project everything we get on and are forced to do moves over and over again, improving every single time until we finally stick it and send. Then, most of us move on and repeat the same process on a new climb, and so the cycle continues.
This problem-solving and learning process is one of the main reasons why climbers develop their love for climbing. At the start of a new climb, we are challenged both physically and mentally. Our mind is challenged heavily in the beginning as we try to solve the puzzle and identify the movements that our body will need to perform. But as we stick moves and receive confirmation, our brain begins to refocus on a narrower and narrower area: the crux. Yet, once the crux is solved and the climb is sent, the brain is done solving.
It is at this point that every climber must make a decision: to repeat or move on. This question is a hard one to answer, and there aren’t many tools out there to help you decide. But in my research and experience, it turns out that there is an optimal way of identifying which climbs or moves are most beneficial for you to repeat. A simple step-by-step process can help you add highly efficient and effective repetition to your training so that you make the best use of your time and energy.
Step 1: Identify your CLIMBING goal
What are you training for? What style is the climb? What type of holds, moves, wall angle, length, intensity, techniques required, etc.? By repeating the climb, you will be developing muscle memory and specific strength. You will become best prepared for your goal if the climbs that you choose to repeat are as similar as possible! However, if your goal is to improve technique overall and do so as much and as fast as possible, then the climbs you repeat should represent and test you on your weakest areas. Your weaknesses are the styles that you train the least and have the most ground to gain!
Step 2: How physically intense is it?
Our goal is to get as many repetitions as needed in order to guarantee progression and mastery of new skills. To do this, it is recommended that we repeat a new set of movements between 5-10 times every 7-10 days in order to learn moves at a fast enough pace to develop muscle memory. If the climb is so physically intense that you can only get a lap or two on it per session, then it may be too hard to develop muscle memory on these movements. This isn’t to say that there isn’t value in repeating a climb this hard, but if the goal is to improve movement, then you would be better off repeating something slightly easier that still challenges your movement but allows for more laps.
Step 3: What is the quality of the climb?
Is the climb providing new and unique or highly applicable stimulus? If the climb is full of simple movements—ones that you are well-versed in or that you won’t experience anything like on your goal—then you may be better off on another climb. Instead of moving on, another option is to reduce this climb down to only the high-value moves. This is especially helpful on climbs with high physical intensity that feature technical moves that you have a lot of room to improve on. This is very similar to the projecting process, but with added repetition, you keep improving on the most tricky moves even after you execute them.
what blend of repeating climbs and doing new ones is optimal for improvement?
Just like repetitions in strength training, repetitions in skill learning should be a staple in climbing training. There is no hard or fast rule as to how much you need, but every session, week, and cycle should be balanced with a guaranteed percentage of successful repetitions and improvements in specific areas. I recommend including repetition training in each session, even if it is simply a warm-up climb that features a tricky technique that you know you can progress.
Repetition, done correctly on the right type of climbs, guarantees improvement. If you are the type of climber that often bounces from climb to climb after a few attempts or gets on climbs that are too difficult too often (only pulling a handful of moves each session), then you could benefit from more repetition in your sessions. Many people find repeating climbs boring and are more excited about new experiences, but I guarantee that after you feel the new level of muscle memory and begin to see skills advance at a faster speed than normal, you’ll be upset you waited this long!
I also recommend that you reduce the repetition frequency of a climb as time goes on in order to maintain improvements made, but also free up more time for learning new movements and avoid the law of accommodation and habituation.
Example Climbing Drill
Below is an example of a drill that I prescribe to my clients that you can add to your weekly practice to see improvements in your technique!
Intention: Develop confidence and proper movement mechanics for movements you have less practice with.
Focus: Use the same beta for every single attempt. Execute perfect technique, and repeat the bodily sensations (tightness in certain areas, shifting of weight, etc.) that lead to success. Place your feet in the perfect spot on every foothold and root down through your anterior and posterior core. Climb fluently, without hesitation.
Details: Select a problem that is below 80% of your physical intensity maximum and holds nearly all of its difficulty in the technical nature of its movements. Devote 10 attempts to each boulder, with enough rest between attempts to ensure you are fully recovered each time. Your goal is to make every attempt better by focusing on executing the beta as flawlessly and efficiently as possible. Do this on 4 different boulder problems. Ideally, the difficulty is hard enough to allow for 3-6 good laps.
This is best done by finding a boulder that is at or even above your limit and doing a section (2-4 moves) of the climb repeatedly. These moves should be highly technical and less dependent on physical strength!
NOTE: We are seeking the most ideal stimulus for YOUR skill development, based on your weaknesses.
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