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Why less is more: The Secret to Long-Term Progress in Training for Climbing

Writer's picture: Charlie SchreiberCharlie Schreiber

Consistency is king. You’ve probably heard this in regard to almost anything in life. Long-term gains come from doing the right things repeatedly. However, many people fail to realize that consistency is a habit, and new habits can be difficult to start. Many people I know get inspired by habits they’ve heard produce rewards. When this happens, they often become motivated to add even more habits to their routine, fantasizing about how much they will improve.


They may have been climbing three times per week, projecting new climbs, getting on the boards, and doing occasional supplemental training. But after listening to a podcast or reading an article, they resolve to add daily hangboarding, 4x4s, stretching, consistent weight training, meal prepping, journaling, and, of course, foam rolling. If you’ve ever tried to add too many new things to your routine too quickly, you’ve probably already learned that it doesn’t work.


These habits usually last 1-2 weeks before the climber is mentally or physically exhausted because their brain or body couldn’t adapt that quickly. Both the mind and body need time to acclimate and develop new neurological and physiological adaptations to sustain higher work capacity. This process takes between 3 to 4 weeks to truly occur and build the infrastructure necessary to add more workload and mental capabilities. If rushed, you’ll find yourself mentally or physically fatigued to the point where you need to deload in both areas. Therefore, if long-term progression is your goal, slow and steady wins the race.


Instead of jumping into a new and elaborate training program, consider introducing 1 or 2 new protocols and give them your full attention. Commit to a 4-week block of training with these new practices, and then evaluate their validity and your capacity to take on more. By “1 protocol,” I don’t mean a 2-hour mobility program with 8 different exercises that you commit to doing three times per week. Start small, master it, guarantee consistency and improvements, and then add more once you have evidence that it works and is sustainable for you.


Three main factors will influence the “stickiness” of new protocols (how sustainable they are for you):



1. Your WHY

2. Your Schedule

3. Tracking/Organization


Why Change Your Climbing Training At All?

Abigail climbing a boulder problem at a climbing competition

Your “why” determines how much motivation you’ll have to do the new activity. If you’re not highly motivated by your goal or if the new activity doesn’t directly help you achieve it, your drive to maintain the practice will quickly fade. Similarly, the less enjoyable the activity, the greater your “why” needs to be. So, if the activity is something you dread but you know it will make you better, and yet you lack a powerful “why,” good luck making it a long-term practice. In cases where you don’t enjoy the activity, I highly recommend habit stacking (listen to my recent podcast episode with Training Beta where I discuss Habit Stacking).


What Does Your Climbing Training Schedule Look Like?

Your schedule outside of climbing will significantly affect your motivation and capabilities. The more free time you have, the easier it will be to add new training sessions, feel prepared, and be fully present to enjoy them. I’ve seen many climbers add several things to an already packed schedule, only to end up skipping sessions or rushing through them to avoid burnout. Instead of giving six activities 30 minutes of practice every five days, they end up giving 12 activities 15 minutes each every eight days. This disproportionally reduces the benefits of everything they’re practicing. What was theoretically designed to improve their results ends up diminishing them!


Track. Your. Successes.

Creating an organized schedule and a method for tracking is the final piece of the puzzle. Establishing a reliable time slot for your new protocol will reduce stress and increase consistency. By organizing your work, life, and training plans, you’ll also avoid the temptation to let activities overlap or forget to complete a task. Tracking your progress is equally important. When we track, we not only gain insight into the effectiveness of the protocols, but we also boost our motivation and confidence. If our records show improved results, we become eager to continue our efforts. If the results keep improving and our schedule allows, adding more practices and maintaining the habits we’ve developed becomes easier.


Summary:


Start small, start simple, and give yourself the best chance at success. By focusing on just one or two new habits at a time, you can ensure that you develop a sustainable routine that won’t overwhelm you. This approach allows you to gradually build both mental and physical capacity, making long-term progress more attainable. Remember, it’s not about how much you can add at once, but about how consistently you can maintain these new habits over time. Slow, steady, and consistent efforts will ultimately lead to the biggest rewards.

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